I recently began a walk along the Ceredigion Coastal Path which, as part of the Wales Coast Path, runs from Cardigan in the south over 60 miles to Ynyslas on the northern edge of the county. This is my diary of the event.
Saturday 25th May 2019 10:55
Location: The Plwmp Tart, Penbryn
A break for a breather and a cup of tea at a cwtch café in a car park somewhere in or near Penbryn. I broke camp at 07:30 and within minutes on the trail crossed a small stream, if I had walked just a few hundred feet more I could have washed and washed up last night. A few hundred feet more and I passed a lush looking meadow whose flatness contrasted with the slope of last night’s bed. but would I have traded all the luxuries for the sight of the pod of dolphins cruising up the coast?
In a few more hundred feet a slippery rock took my foot out from under me and dumped me unceremoniously on my arse, brushing myself off the next few hundred feet rewarded me with a slowworm warming itself in the early morning rays of the sun on the path in front of me. The path undulated and became a little overgrown, always in the sight of the radar tower of the missile facility high above on the approaching headland. Finally the path turned to meadows as it diverted away from the base and the headland and delivered me to the top of Aberporth.
Now on the road I passed through an estate of what I guess used to be service personnel houses judging by their uniform design and repairs to extend them beyond their designed working life. The road wound down and down into Aberporth proper and the beach and toilets. There I made my morning ablutions, did last nights washing up and made breakfast. I washed my cooking pot in the beach shower and filled my water bottles in the basin of the beach toilets and packed everything back into my rucksack.
From Aberporth the path leads back up from the other side of the beach. Feeling confident that finding the path would be way I followed a sign and in the absence of any more signs found myself walking through a housing estate of bungalows. The estate gave way to a road out of town, the sea was on my left but the path never appeared. I trudged the mile and a half or so to Tresaith completely missing out on the cliff side views and cascading waterfall of Afon Saith. I sat in a bus shelter at the junction for Llangranog and luxuriated in the new supply of water I had picked up in Aberporth. Consulting the guide this time I could see the start of the path to Penbryn, just round passed the glass and chrome modernist style house being built on the corner in front of me.
The 1.6 miles to Penbryn climb steeply with steps cut into the earth and rock to facilitate the rise in altitude, the sea is on the left as usual and the path meandered up and down, close to and further away from the edge until it was time to rapidly descend down more steps cut into the earth through the woods at Penbryn, arriving here at the cafe in the car park where a lot of tea and a packet of crisps ( for a very modest £2.40) turned into two pots of tea and packets of crisps and a 45 minute break in the sun.
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